This Israeli spot serves some truly comforting and excellent brunch dishes in a homey but still lively environment. Winsome is still the best and classes at Thea Koreks above Fairway. WebBig Nicks Burger and Pizza Joint at Broadway and 77th Street. Tuesday's - you could get a rack of ribs, big salad with lots of fresh Many nights after closing wed repair to Ruskays. Tags:Big Nick's Burger and Pizza Joint, East Village Eye, East Village in the 1980s, Lou Reed, New York City 1984, old pizza parlors New York City, Upper West Side in the 1980s, Velvet Underground Posted in Bars and restaurants, East Village, Music, art, theater, Random signage, Upper West Side/Morningside Hts | 2 Comments . Caviar canaps, corn dogs, and the worlds biggest spring rolls, to start. What about all the Chinese restaurants on the UWS, especially in the 90s? Let the fancies have Black Seed and Sadelles. I'll have to check with my wife to try and remember the slogan. Did it have something to do with meatballs? Yes, the ABC space did become Peretti's Some of the Cuban-Chinese and Dominican places have been around seemingly forever. ALF is scheduled to open in Chelsea Market next month. Thank you in particular for mentioning my FAVORITE cashier at Fairway, Winsome.SUCH a lovey person, and her name suits her. Caf Nicholson. Chronicling an ever-changing city through faded and forgotten artifacts, Kara Thornton, Publicist, Black Dog & Leventhal 212-364-0537 kara.thornton@hbgusa.com, Ephemeral New York's new book was described as "beguiling, lavishly illustrated" by Sam Roberts in his Bookshelf column December 2, 2016, Thanks to EW for the kudos in their December 9 issue. It fell into disrepair -- no surprise here -- in the early 1970s and closed in 1974, to be reopened by Warner LeRoy (at the time best known as the creator of Maxwell's Plum) in 1976. Yes, the ABC space did become Peretti's, which lasted quite a while too, in Columbus Ave terms, before then turning into @SQC. That was the first time we tried their shroom and sausage slice as well as the cacio e pepe pizza with its four types of cheese and cracked black pepper, both of which will enrich your life in ways you have yet to fathom. Lived on the west side since 1974 when things were a bit different, but every place you mentioned has a spot in my heart. WebRestaurant Team Member - Crew (1122 - Upper West Side) (23004108) Description. And pair it with some Buffalo Cauliflower. Adam Pally Is His Familys Short-Order Cook, The Best Way to Stop Taking Chicken for Granted. Gjelinas Owners Insist Their New York Restaurant Will Reopen. Herbed Eggs are no less mouth-watering when wholesomely seasoned with parsley, cilantro, and scallion. Those were the days. I remember seeing the brilliant Jeffrey Wright around when he played in Angels in America on Broadway. According to their website, Westside Restaurant, Broadway and 69th, has been around since 1965. Dont think of leaving if you havent had the Basbousa, a delicious coconut, yogurt, and semolina cake that gets sprinkled with nuts and drizzled with syrup to put the final seal of perfection! They used to be all over the 5 Boroughs and the Suburb's, generally seemed busy to a visitor it's hard to understand why there are now so few left. Read on. I have lived on the Upper West Side all of my life, remember so many of the things you wrote about so beautifully. Gramercy Tavern is a popular restaurant on the Upper West Side of Manhattan. Even though celebrated on Broadway, my roommate Ascanio wouldnt get picked up by cabs when he hailed them. Thanks for this. With little room to maneuver, Hasegawa et al. Every two or three nigiri rounds will be broken up by a cooked dish like tempura fried hake in a mushroom broth. Basta cos. Easy to miss until you walk through the narrow hallway and the world opens up to you, the Milling Room is a giant, overlooked jewel of the Upper West. Love the dance picture! this is going to be a great thread to read, albiet not one I can contribute tomy only reference was the rib place on 72nd? The sushi tends to lean traditional here, but the slices of fish are notably thicker than what you may have seen elsewhere. Nice Martin has been Jin Ramen is pure heaven for all ramen lovers in the Upper West Side, this is absolutely worth a trip if youre looking to satisfy your ramen cravings and your empty tummy. Learn how your comment data is processed. Restaurant Team Member - Crew (1122 - Upper West Side) (23004108)DescriptionCULTIVATE A BETTERSee this and similar jobs on LinkedIn. And Zum Zum, which has been discussed before -- was there a branch on the UWS? I did, and they remembered him (and treated me better because of it). The Ribbon is here to rescue! I still love love love it here so thank you for such upbeat forward thinking encouragement !! Now on its third owner, a guy named Ira, Murrays continues to shine, smaller but no less brilliant. I have a sneaking suspicion I know the author from one of my favorite coffee shops. and the Pyramid Club (101 Ave. A) become playgrounds for East Village New Wavers. Entries (RSS) and Comments (RSS). But theres never been a better time to eat in the neighborhood. Leontis chicken in Their interiors are soft and voluptuous. Though future scholars may debate the true victor of the hot dog wars an argument can be made that Papaya King reigns supreme Grays famous Recession Special (now two hot dogs and a drink for $6.45), first introduced in the 1980s, is as delicious as it is sadly eternally timely. Like the Upper East Side location, the here menu ranges from omelettes to meatloaf, but the most important thing to know is that they roast their turkeys in-house. 18. Serving signature Vietnamese dishes with a twist in a homey, friendly ambiance, Bnh Vietnamese Shop House is going to surprise you with its stunning dishes! The Upper West Side location is also a zoo at brunch, but you should still stop by for silky hummus, top-notch shakshuka, and dense, flaky burekas. New York Buffalo Dansville Fredonia Greece Jamestown Lancaster LeRoy Medina North Tonawanda Syracuse North Carolina Durham Gastonia Hickory Ohio Great food, great regulars, great feel. And the gruff bodega owner on the east side of Columbus between 76-77th Streets who wore roller blades? Its overflowing with people, and, more importantly, happiness. Wilsons regular (Hey Debbie & Glen! Ive been here 30 years too and have watched all of those fabulous places close down and not much has taken their place. Columbus tween 70,71. Be the first to get expert restaurant recommendations for every situation right in your inbox. Fancy. Stop by for a half-bird with skin that tastes like its coated in brown sugar, and add a side of boiled green bananas. Donnez moi pancakes! There can be little doubt that the restaurant with its bow-tied and vested waitstaff, glowing dragons, and elaborately folded napkins speaks to another era, when knowledge of Chinese regional cuisine was limited by the fact that most Americans werent aware China had regions. One day I was reading a book with the title How to find the perfect mate. I had folded the cover over so no one could see this embarrassing title. Thanks for the lovely article. Al Buon Gusto also had a great pizza, though I couldn't tell you what their slogan was I also seem to recall them being on 68th between Broadway Up on 100 St. was the Harbin Inn. thank you so much. Copyright 2001-2023 by the eGullet Society for Culinary Arts & Letters, All Rights Reserved Having said that, you could order the French onion soup and a martini and be perfectly satisfied by your meal here. This extremely rich, fatty pork broth, fresh noodles, soft-yolk eggs, and tender pork belly that melts in the mouth can make you fall in love in just a bite! On the next warm, breezy night, grab a wicker chair on the sidewalk patio here and eat some mussels in a dijonnaise sauce. Great story and love these throwback memories/articles which you folks at WSR should do more often. Also, the corner grocery on West End and 72nd is licensed with a name like "San Juan Hill", which makes me strongly suspect it has been there for a long time. The Best Restaurants On The Upper West Side. Cafe Rouge (Hotel Pennsylvania) La Caravelle (New York City) Carnegie Deli. Trust us, the portion is huge! This slow-cooked rib is incredibly melt-off-the-bone and youll never regret having it! Favorite hangouts were Cafe La Fortuna lined with pictures of opera singers and opera music playing non-stop as you could enjoy a small European slice of cake, Cafe Mozart, on West 70th Street. I'll have to check with my wife to try and remember the slogan. This is a wonderful recollection of the UWS back in the day. But rarely are they as memorable as the Nashville Hot Chickwich version at this casual Korean restaurant on the Upper West Side. An overstuffed pastrami sandwich on soft rye served with mustard and crunchy half-sours is also a must-try. Thank you, neighbors! This Israeli restaurant is also open for dinner, and its a great option for a nice, casual night out. Hesitate no more, and lets jump right into the best Upper West Side Restaurants that we have specially picked for you! Not exactly pre-WWII, but close. Thank you, Marianne. Three months later, the New York Daily News came calling. - Dr. Cox on Scrubs. I had a summer job sty Ruelles. I now see how lucky I am to have lived here for the past 30 years. The 90-seat restaurant, on 70th, buzzes with a 1980s New York energy extruded through 1920s Paris. 9. Shun Lee West43 W. 65th St., nr. Which means you should be ordering their turkey sandwich. 108th St.; 212-510-7256. The sense of time is both seductive and deceiving. Lovely and loving. As for the coffee the Abbott to a bagel places Costello it is widely understood as a waste of time. The spread is astonishing. Though theres no red sauce here, the sourdough-battered chicken in pastella may just be the best fried chicken in the city. late 1980s? He must have been 15 or 16, making me 9 or 10. I studied dance on a scholarship at the famed Steps Dance Studio on Broadway and 74th, 8 hours a day and acting at night. Absolute Bagels also makes fantastic Thai iced tea. And the bakery next door where they gave out free cookies to the neighborhood kids I forget the name. Awadh2588 Broadway, nr. Dont forget to grab a bottle of Allagash White, a Belgian-style witbier with a refreshing balance of citrus and spice to cut down the fat! The restaurant no relation to Ren Redzepis 108 is the first one devoted specifically to the Chongqing municipality in the city. Celeste502 Amsterdam Ave., nr. Since he used 3 brands he was able to put stores every few blocks. Recently, while reading a novel published in the 80s I discovered a reference to it. The 2nd Floor Bar & Essen is located on top of the 2nd Ave Deli at 1442 1st Avenue with a separate entrance on East 75th Street between 1st & York avenues. Gramercy Tavern. 198?- present. Before the space has SQC, it had Peretti's for many years (back into the 1980s); in the early 1970s I believe it had a version of O'Neal's (used to have my Sunday Harvey Wallbangers there ). Try the daikon cakes sauted in a sticky soy sauce with bean sprouts, eggs, and scallions, or the Thai Market egg crepe filled with shrimp, hot peppers, tofu, and sweet coconut sauce. 282 Grand Street. The casual set-up makes this place perfect for a meetup with a friend or a date near Amsterdam Avenue and 107th Street. This casual Thai restaurant on Amsterdam Avenue specializes in street food. Or some Sweet & Sour Pork that tastes like pure heaven in every bite! Mental Floss magazine named ENY's new book "New York City in 3D in the Gilded Age" one of their 5 favorite reads for August 2014! What a rich place were privileged to know. Thus has it been for the last century at this Upper West Side institution. 35 Of The Best Restaurants On The Upper West Side: Eater The popular food website Eater just published a list of 35 local restaurants that give you a reason to Not knowing anyone with only $500 in my pocket I came to New York to pursue acting and dancing just like Gene Kelly had done. Absolute Bagels is a filthy little store with sublime bagels. I had only one decade, but it was glorious! Sometimes a crisis that stops you in ur tracks allows new truths. There are technically better bagels in New York City, but in terms of all-around experience, Barney Greengrass is hard to beat. 74th Street Cafe & Steakhouse2121 Broadway, nr. His studied hand, however, makes itself felt in quietly bold choices that enliven the modern American menu: wild mushroom risotto dusted with cotija and drizzled with balsamic vinegar; a cameo of pickled ramps atop a silken celery-root soup; spicy vongole bucatini with Thai chile and miso. They were not alone; I think the average age of the customers was about 75. Enter your email address to follow Ephemeral New York and receive notifications of new posts by email. I still love the people but those places and people were special. A typical meal might include banana pakoras, mung daal, alu gobi, fresh pappadam, and broken wheat kheer. It should taste as much like Wingstops version as possible., The Barber Who Moonlights As a Salumi Master. One of the best Vietnamese restaurants in the city, Bnh serves dishes like bn b b with sizzling butter beef, a pork belly bnh m thats a contender for the best in the city, and a crispy bnh chng chin appetizer thats filled with pork and comes with a tangy soy dressing. Dagon is one of the few places on the Upper West Side that serves equally delicious brunch, dinner, and late-night drinks. Delicatessen, the art of making tough meat tender, is alive and well at this sliver of a kosher restaurant on West 72nd Street. I'm wondering about some of the bars-that-serve-food in the neighborhood. Thanks for taking me back down memory lane. The article includes this photo of a cool-looking Reed taken in front of an anonymous pizza shop somewhere in New York City, with a great chalkboard menu beside him (veal and peppers parm $4.75). This was just a delight. The best burgers,best eggs Benedict and best fried zucchini on the planet. I agree with your love of the neighborhood. From classic Jewish delis and Dominican standbys to some of the best places to eat Szechuan or Vietnamese food in Manhattanthe options on the Upper West Side will satisfy nearly any mood you (or the people you need to please) are in. The combination of fat, salt, and spice makes any version so scrumptious! I worked pt at a boutique around the corner, J.L. Opera night at Caffe Taci was the best. No-one's mentioned Gitlitz yet in this thread, the good Jewish delicatessen that was for many years on 77 St. and Broadway. Remus had Aventine; Romulus had Palatine; Barney has Amsterdam; and Murray has Broadway. Chanterelle (New York City restaurant) Chelsea Place. another Cherry patron! 108th St.; 212-932-2052. Joe, who was Mr. Olympia number 18 in the 1950s, exercises every night in Riverside park, with two shopping bags at 96, his mind sharp as a tack. All of that changed after John Lennon was killed but at the time it was great knowing that ppl who could live anywhere they pleased chose my neighborhood , Leda: haha, I found the perfect mate a couple of times but didnt know it till I found myself , Loved your beautifully written memories. If youre searching for the best Omakase experience in the Upper West Side, then search for no more because Sushi Kaito is the spot! I've mentioned some before. Culinarians in the know may be familiar with Daniel Bouluds Skybox, a four-top tucked above the kitchen at his flagship, Daniel. Shake Shack (366 Columbus, 77th) great burgers, fries and shakes with a huge NYC following.. Alices Tea Cup (102 W 73rd, Columbus) Bakery Tel: (212) 737-1700. The August 1984 edition of monthly downtown arts newspaper the East Village Eyefeatured a cover story on Lou Reed timed to the release of his New Sensations LP. A very close look reveals a phone number under Free Delivery. And that number turns out to still belong to . They sell high-quality cheese, meats, and hundreds of packages of chocolate babka dailybut the real star of Zabars is their smoked fish. Over the years Ive made two feature films on the UWS inspired by the stories of people I met here. Are you certain that Al Buon Gusto took the SQC space after closing on 72nd? I though at that time the space was Peretti's, though maybe I'm not pr 2. Get alerts to jobs like this, to your inbox. This fluffy, savory dish is to die for! That would make it 1974. 3. Steve, a world famous comedic opera singer would serenade us at the boat basin and Carol Tannenhauser, writer of so many wonderful articles at the Rag, climbed all the stairs to my apartment on a wintry day to hand me a coffee mug for an anecdote I had written. Between an appetizer and an entree, you can easily walk away having spent $30 on an exciting dinner here. And El Malecon, though previously under a different name I forget, has been between 97th and 98th on Amsterdam for as long as I can remember. 452 Amsterdam Ave, New York. Results 1 - 1 of 1 restaurants. In a pizza-mad city, these pies rival anything eaten in the shadow of Mount Vesuvius. In video, photos, and text, Brooks Headley Loves Every Inch of the New Superiority Burger. I look forward to seeing her again and telling her how much I appreciated her memoir. by the dakota, in 1982-5ish? The first movie I got to see was Gene Kelly in On The Town at age 5 and I knew: I had to go to this magical place called New York where you can sing and dance. I just remembered the first sushi restaurant I went to down the block and around the corner on Amsterdam Avenue Nishi. We ate at The Cherry Restaurant which was really a diner- when we had money. Blog at WordPress.com. When Tom Valenti closed Ouest in 2016, hair shirts were donned and laments rose to the heavens. 6. Opening Night at Jacs, the New Spot in the Old Smile Space. Director, New Media Studies, International Culinary Center (take my food-blogging course). By The Lyonnaise chef Daniel Boulud is a shape-shifter: stuffy on the Upper East, transactional in midtown, and here, in the Upper West Side, pure comfort. Day Drinking at the East Village Dive Bar Sophies on Valentines Day, Who has a drink at 3 p.m. on a Tuesday? I never took one day for granted. Thank You ! Chick Chick is a casual Korean restaurant on the corner of Amsterdam Avenue and 90th Street that serves surprisingly good fried chicken sandwiches, or any dish made from chicken. What to order: Shakshuka, Croissant Sandwich, Burekas, Herbed Eggs, Address: 300 Amsterdam Ave, New York, NY 10023. I always hope to get her when I am on line to pay! Keep satisfying your palate with the Tuna Tartare, a classic yet flavorful dish made with fresh tuna filet, delicious Asian sauce, and layered with chunks of avocado that will tantalize your taste buds. The combination of fat, salt, and spice makes any fried chicken sandwich at least some degree of delicious. 10. The space at Boulud Sud gently curved ceiling, colorful banquettes in harlequin stripes, white tablecloths radiates monied calm. I live on the upper west side and I have to say, restaurants don't last very long. Even in the fairly short time I've been in my current apartment, Little amaryllis of meat, said a friend, who works at a nearby flower shop. Always had a good meal there. We hope you have some favorite spots in your mind, dont forget to share with us your own experience dining at those places. Not sure what might have been there in the interim. During happy hour, he does brisk business in gaufrettes and gougres at the bar, incidentally the longest zinc bar in Manhattan, And the menu is AP Bistro. They only serve Omakase with the Classic option (13 courses) and the Premium option (17 courses). During the three nightly seatings at this tiny, crazily affordable sushi-ya owned by Yoko Hasegawa, there are but 12 people and then the rest of the world. Cue the renaissance tune. All rights reserved. The thick-cut slices of pepperoni turn into little cups that hold drops of precious grease, glistening like pork nectar. I arrived on the UWS in 1989, and remember Cafe la Fortuna well such fond memories. The Burger Joint aka Big Nicks at Bway and 76th has been around for a long time. Recently, while reading a novel published in the 80s I discovered I miss Teachers Too. Primary Location: New York - New York - 1122 - Upper West Side-(01122) Work Location: 1122 - Upper West Side-(01122) 269 Amsterdam Ave New York 10023. Are you certain that Al Buon Gusto took the SQC space after closing on 72nd? Ephemeral New York was interviewed in a July 25 piece in The Greenwich Village Society for Historic Preservation's blog, Off the Grid. My grandfather was a regular there when he worked as a newspaper reporter at several (most now defunct) New York papers throughout the 60s and 70s. Since Bnh first opened its door in 2020, its become one of the best restaurants to have graced the neighborhood. A tortellini pie veal meatballs, bolognese, mortadella-stuffed tortellini is equal parts Medieval Times and GBBO. The restaurant, which opened in 2014, occupies the former Palm Room of the Endicott Hotel, a soaring, skylit space thats easier to fill with light than with people. During a past visit, some of our favorite pieces were the lightly seared sea bass, striped jack with smoky yuzu sauce, and flaky, sweet unagi. Though often unjustly overlooked in the mourners kaddish frequently recited over Great New York Delicatessens, this 90-year-old institution quietly doles out towering pastrami sandwiches, tender kreplach, and the elusive tongue polonaise (tongue with a sweet-and-sour raisin sauce) in a no-nonsense dining room where walkers more often than not crowd the linoleum floor. If you have 99 problems and you live on the Upper West Side, its safe to say that a neighborhood Thai spot is not one of those problems. Start it right with Mahi Mahi, an incredible piece of fish with hen of the woods, trumpet, and like five other varieties of mushroom. People love Jacobs Pickles for their signature Catfish Taco with hearty catfish fillet coated with bread crumbs, fried to perfection, and taste surprisingly good. The 2nd Floor Bar & Essen is a speakeasy style cocktail bar serving a twist on classic Jewish Deli favorites. Updates on what's yummy in Vancouver to your inbox. Like a Montrachet or a Sagrantino, a truly great Upper West Side restaurant must have deep roots in its terroir. edited after reading MHesse's superior information. What to order: Siu Mai Dimsum, Crab Meat & Shrimp Dimsum, Roasted Duck, Sweet & Sour Pork, Address: 380 Amsterdam Ave, New York, NY 10013. This classic Upper West Side restaurant is more about dining in a dimly-lit, red-leather-booth institution than it is about any single plate of food. Chocolatier Lagusta Yearwood of Lagustas Luscious applies a ridiculous old-school punk-DIY aesthetic to her sweets. Like the Upper East Side location, the here menu ranges from omelettes to meatloaf, but I LOVE NY. How wonderful, thank you so much for writing this. 98th St.; 646-861-3604. More democratic but no less a wonder is the 74th Street Cafe & Steakhouse, an anomalous oasis of calm and extremely satisfying chicken-salad sandwiches on the second floor of Fairway. What to order: Sasso Chicken Liver Mouse, Shish Barak, Crispy Roasted Lamb, Basbousa, Address: 2454 Broadway, New York, NY 10024. Restaurant 222 - on 79th St. Come by and immerse yourself in their French-inspired menu and award-winning wine list, they can never disappoint you! As is the food. And finally, the Bear Bar on 76th & Broadway with a slightly damaged wooden bear head sticking out from the wall. Bird Dog offers the most useful luxury of all. How about Dobsons, a great meeting place with a great, cheap brunch, Ernies on Broadway had a popular bar scene, Ruelles, the creative looking Ruskays on Columbus Ave. about 75th St. and of course Teachers and Teachers Too on Broadway in the 70s where actors went for inexpensive food and you got to see all your actor/singer/dancer friends who were the wait staff when not in a show. But theres more slices at Mamas Too!, and if you cant wait in the pepperoni-slice-only line, youll want to avail yourself of these. I loved that picture of the woman hovering over the NY skyline. 3 years later we moved on up to West 53rd off 8th which was also like the wild west and we spent most nights at, conveniently, Studio 54such good times and not much money needed. While exploring The Ribbons menu, youll notice that The Ribbon mainly serves the classics with enough of a twist to make the food stand out. It almost didn't occur to me to look at the Zagat entry for Fine & Schapiro to see if the date is noted there. Mamas Too!2750 Broadway, nr. I once won and got a bottle of champagne. could that be? Leonti. WebBlue Ribbons first Upper West Side outpost is banging like 50 Cents In Da Club days. It's China Fun now? Will it be pigs ear, sliced into ribbons like meat fettuccine? Columbus Ave.; 212-877-2874. Ela is a big, attractive Greek restaurant, and it's one of the best options for a somewhat upscale meal on the UWS. A wonderful neighborhood spot! Had a nice truffle festival as I recall. Thank you for the memories! The menu, a choice between a 12- and a 16-course omakase, leans heavily on nigiri, a sushi high-wire act. Craving some really good oysters, roast chicken, bacon cheddar burgers, and big plates of Caesar salad? Web1980s1990s: Boy Bar (15 St. Marks Pl.) Whenever you feel like dining out, enjoying some really good wine with live music at weekends, Bar Boulud is the place! 1. . Re Caffe Taci, City Opera, not New York State Opera. A Special Edition of Pupper West Side: Remembering Mr. PWS A Little Dog Who Led A Big Life, See Shakespeare in the Parks This Weekend Like You've Never Seen It Before -- Masked and Socially Distanced, Openings & Closings: Zaad, Kissaki, La Terrine, How Local Cops Broke the E-Bike Case: I Floored It, Captain Says. Al Buon Gusto was there? I was married for over 40 yrs and only learned about myself when my son died. Fish. Big Nicks Burger and Pizza Joint at Broadway and 77th Street. And I saw it all; thank you dear, for letting us in on such a precious, shimmering & deeply felt treat, one that swirled & spun until my eyes fairly brimmed with tears of joy and sadness. I think La Rosita, further north on Broadway between 107th and 108th Sts., has been there equally long. Swiss chalet? Sinai hospital, probably a day or two after being born) until 1987 when I went to college. If youre looking for somewhere on the UWS to bring your whole family for a great dinner thatll cost around $15 per person, this is the place. If you think of the best place in the Upper West Side to serve the best dumplings, think of Jing Fong. Born and raised here since 1957 it does change and your mention of many businesses that have gone made me so nostalgic . Murrays Sturgeon2429 Broadway, nr. Although the booming economy of the mid-1980's was a reason so many restaurateurs could take so many chances, Union Square, Montrachet, Arizona 206 and Did it have something to do with meatballs? Powered by Invision Community. I bet the number of pre-WWII places can be counted on one hand. Brass plaques in the bar for seriuos regulars, and one of the inspirations for Cheers. When I started law school at Fordham, which is down the street, he wrote me a letter of introduction to take to the owners. I want pancakes! One more thing to know: Thai Market fuels Columbia students in the same way that Red Bull and late nights do, so youll probably spot a bunch of 20-year-olds here. Munificent and nebbishy, a portrait of Barney Greengrass, the original Sturgeon King, keeps watch as a brisk trade is done in Jewish appetizing: silken sheets of nova, sturgeon, chubs, whitefish, sable. McGlades, a tavern across from ABC, it's a Starbucks now. Apply Now. Like a swan, it glides above the furious action (and jostling old ladies) of the supermarket below. -- William Grimes, "People are bastard-coated bastards, with bastard filling." 60th and 61st. Bchamel replaces red sauce in a Roman artichoke lasagna, basically an artichoke in a pasta costume. My favorite was Chun Cha Foo, a Mandarin restaurant between 91st and 92nd on Broadway. Fine & Schapiro138 W. 72nd St., nr. Bergamo, where the young Leonti once lived, is the Upper West Side of Italy: plush, lush, and opulent.